Proceed as follows: place the bike on flat ground. The bike must be perfectly upright, with both wheels resting on the ground. holding the rear end of the bike up and off of the ground, measure the distance (D - fig. 2) between the rear wheel spindle centre and any point located vertically above the rear wheel spindle. (you may want to mark this point with a felt-tip pen or adhesive tape). measure the same dimension (S - fig. 3) in the front fork (hold up and off the ground the front end of the bike), by using as reference points the front wheel spindle centre and bottom base of the bottom fork yoke. while keeping the bike in a vertical position, lower the bike to the floor and allow the suspension to set under the weight of the bike. Measure the same two dimensions again, making sure that you are using the same reference points that you had used before.

Measure the same dimensions again, this time with a fully equipped rider (wearing a helmet, clothing and boots) sitting on the bike, in a natural riding position, to simulate in the best possible way the load distribution between the front and the rear end. the bike static set-up will be satisfactory if the values measured as above fall within the ranges indicated in this table: ROAD (TRACK) Without Rider With Rider Front 30 mm (25 mm) 45/50 mm (35 mm) Rear 10 mm (5 mm) 40 mm (30 mm)

Obviously, the amount of adjustment is proportional to the suspension stroke. In order to adjust measured values to recommended values, it is necessary to modify the preloading value of the spring or springs.

This operation can be carried out on both the rear shock absorber or the front forks, according to operation requirements, in the following way: to modify the spring preloading of the front forks, adjust the threaded adjusters(4.1 - fig. 4) provided in the upper caps of each stanchion or sleeve, according to whether it is a standard fork or an upside-down fork. In this case, too, every turn of the adjuster is linked with the pitch of the thread in that adjuster, i.e. 1 or 1.25 mm according to fork types. This determines a preloading variation. Again, it is advisable not to exceed the preloading limits, once the free length of the spring is known.

For a fork, the standard preloading is about 8/10 mm, it never goes below 5 mm nor does it exceed 15/20 mm. If higher preload is used, you will obtain sharp suspension response: it is then advisable to use a higher spring by 1K (the loading, expressed in N/mm) and reduce the preloading to standard values. The rear shock absorber spring preloading can be modified by screwing in or screwing out the adjustment ring (5.1 - fig. 5); normally, each adjuster ring turn corresponds to a variation in the spring length equal to the pitch of the thread cut in the shock absorber body (generally, 1.25 mm) and, depending on the leverage action through the swinging arm and suspension linkage, this will represent a larger dimension measured at the rear wheel spindle.

Top-of-the-range shock absorbers have a hydraulic preloading adjustment system whereby turning an adjuster nut located at a distance from the shock absorber body (remote adjustment), a hydraulic piston is actuated, applying pressure to a spacer, which can compress or release the spring. In any case, preloading must be adjusted until the values listed in the table supplied above are reached. It would help to know the spring free length: you would then know by how much you are altering the standard preloading. Correct standard preloading values are around 10/12 mm, and never exceed 18/20 mm nor go below 5 mm. If this should happen, you need to use a harder or a softer spring.

Up to this point, we have explained how to adjust the mechanical parameters of suspensions, the springs, which largely determine the dynamic characteristics of a motorbike. Forks and shock absorbers equipped with hydraulic braking adjusters in compression and braking adjusters in rebound enable to fine-tune the dynamic characteristics and to obtain exceptional results in terms of riding safety, comfort and smoothness. The difference between two motorcycles, one with and one without perfect suspension setting, is that the rider of the bike with the best setting will be subjected to fewer risks performing the same actions. It's not just about the bike performance!

Heavy braking and sudden acceleration, riding into corners at high speed, riding over bumps, sudden changes of direction, are all common riding events that put a lot of strain on suspensions. The hydraulic "damping" part of the suspension work becomes important when heavy acceleration is applied to, and must be absorbed by, the shock absorbing elements during their strokes.

First of all, it is important to become familiar with the concept that each spring must have the correct damping setting. It is not advisable to replace springs with others having different loads (Kg/mm2), while maintaining the same damping: on the contrary, setting operations should be carried out all over again.

For good standard setting, the adjusters (the compression and the rebound adjusters) should be halfway into the available adjustment range. In other words, if 40 notches ("clicks") are available, the adjuster should be set to the 20th. This is a "trick" to allow riders whose weight is different from the standard weight of 70 kg to adjust the damping settings to their riding style, and to the type of route they wish to cover each time.

How to adjust hydraulic damping? Before carrying out this operation, the correct static setting should be verified. It is also necessary to check for good fork smoothness: a practical test consists of compressing the fork, while the bike is stationary, by pushing down on the handlebars or the top fork yoke, and then releasing it. No "stiction" should be observed in either travelling direction. An excessively high tightening torque applied to the locking screws of either the sleeve or the stanchion (according to the type of fork) or on the bottom yoke, can cause a misalignment and consequently, affect the smoothness of the moving parts inside it. Incorrect tightening of the fork yokes (clamps) can also affect smoothness.

This preliminary explanation is very important: you may waste hours trying to solve a problem mistakenly ascribed to bad damping setting, to then find out that it had been caused by insufficient smoothness. The tires must obviously be in perfect condition and the suspension linkages must be well greased and free in their movements. As a general rule, we advise to adjust in small increments, such as 2 or 3 notches (clicks) at a time.

For the rear shock absorber, the rebound damping should be adjusted first, followed by compression braking. Proceed similarly for front fork adjustment. Every adjustment should be tested on varied roads that mirror, as much as possible, your typical ride. The best results are obtained when a dynamic balance between the front end and the rear end is reached.

Front Forks
On standard equipment front forks (Showa and Ohlins), the rebound hydraulic damping adjustment is carried out by turning the inside of the hex head screws (6.1 - fig. 6) provided at the top of each sleeve (or stanchion). The compression damping adjuster (6.2 - fig. 6) is located in the bottom part of the fork, exactly on the front of each fork bottom for Showa forks, and inside each fork bottom, near the front wheel spindle drilling, for Ohlins forks. Before changing the factory setting, it is advisable to note down the original values, so as to be able to return to default settings. Also, note down each new setting and the corresponding results, step by step, to check the effect of your adjustments. Another useful tip is to check adjustment uniformity (notches or "clicks", preloading, and stanchion position with respect to the top yoke) for both sleeves or stanchions.

The front wheel "bounces" or "patters" during the final part of braking:
1. If the front forks travel all the way to the end of their stroke (you can verify this by checking the position reached by a nylon clamp fixed to either stanchion), the spring should be replaced with a harder spring.
2. If the last part of the stroke is not completed, the oil level is too high (or expressed another way, the air volume (gap to the oil level) is insufficient.
3. If, however, the forks work by travelling to the end of their stroke, but performance is, nonetheless, good in corners, the oil level should be increased.
4. If, in corners, the steering feels light and riding generally feels unsafe, change the spring for a harder spring and leave the oil level unchanged.

The front wheel "bounces" (the so-called "pattering") or "vibrates" when riding into corners, until the front brake lever is released or until power is transmitted to the rear wheel:
1. Increase the spring preloading
2. Replace the springs with harder springs
3. Try decreasing the oil level
4. You may want to decrease the rear shock absorber spring preloading or reduce the rear end ride height (chassis set-up will form the object of the next paper)

The front wheel is unsteady and feels unsafe half-way through corners, between the end of the braking action and the beginning of throttle opening
1. Increase rebound damping
2. This problem could also be caused by excessive rebound damping: try reducing it considerably
3. Excessive compression damping: try slightly reducing it.

The front wheel loses grip riding out of corners
1. Increase the rebound damping
2. Excessive spring preloading: try reducing it
3. Replace the rear shock absorber spring with a harder spring
4. Raise the fork sleeves (or stanchions) through the top and bottom yokes to lower the front end ride height

The rear wheel has too little grip
1. If this problem becomes apparent in the early stages of throttle opening, it could be caused by excessive rear end ride height
2. Excessive rear shock absorber spring preloading: decrease it
3. Excessive compression damping: decrease it
4. Another possible cause is excessive rebound damping, especially if you experience "bouncing" when travelling over bumps.

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